How to Change Engine Oil in Car: A Comprehensive, Step-by-Step Guide for DIY Enthusiasts​

Changing your car’s engine oil is one of the most critical maintenance tasks you can perform to keep your vehicle running smoothly, extend its lifespan, and avoid costly repairs. While many drivers rely on mechanics for this job, learning to do it yourself saves money, builds mechanical confidence, and ensures you control the quality of parts and oil used. This guide breaks down the process from start to finish, covering tools, safety, step-by-step instructions, and common pitfalls—making it accessible even for first-time DIYers. By following these steps, you’ll not only save hundreds annually but also gain a deeper understanding of your car’s inner workings.

Why Changing Engine Oil Matters: The Science Behind It

Before diving into the “how,” let’s clarify why this task is non-negotiable. Engine oil serves three primary roles: lubricating moving parts (like pistons and camshafts) to reduce friction, cooling hot components by transferring heat away, and cleaning the engine by trapping dirt, metal shavings, and other debris. Over time, oil breaks down due to heat and contamination, losing its effectiveness. Old oil becomes thick, gritty, and unable to protect critical parts—leading to increased wear, overheating, reduced fuel efficiency, and even catastrophic engine failure.

Manufacturers typically recommend oil changes every 5,000 to 7,500 miles (8,000–12,000 km) or every 6 months, whichever comes first. However, this varies by vehicle: turbocharged engines, frequent short trips, or driving in extreme heat/cold may require more frequent changes. Always consult your owner’s manual for your car’s specific needs.

Tools and Materials You’ll Need

To change your oil safely and effectively, gather these items beforehand. Skipping even one tool can lead to spills, injury, or improper installation.

1. ​Correct Oil and Filter​

• ​Engine Oil: Match the viscosity (e.g., 5W-30, 0W-20) and API/ILSAC certification listed in your manual. Using the wrong viscosity (too thin or thick) can damage seals or cause poor lubrication.

• ​Oil Filter: Opt for a high-quality filter from a trusted brand (e.g., Mobil 1, Bosch, Fram). Ensure it’s compatible with your car—check the part number against your manual or use online compatibility tools.

2. ​Drain Pan and Tools for Removal​

• ​Oil Drain Pan: A 5–7 quart pan with a spout (to pour old oil into a container) prevents messy spills.

• ​Socket/Wrench Set: Most cars use a 13mm, 14mm, or 15mm wrench/socket for the drain plug. Some vehicles have a hex-head plug—use the right size to avoid stripping threads.

• ​Oil Filter Wrench: A strap-style or cap-style wrench works best. Avoid cheap, flimsy wrenches that slip and scratch the filter.

3. ​Safety and Cleanup Gear​

• ​Gloves and Goggles: Old oil contains harmful chemicals; protect your skin and eyes.

• ​Jack and Jack Stands: If your oil pan is hard to reach, lift the car safely. Never work under a car supported only by a jack.

• ​Funnel and Rag: For adding new oil and wiping spills.

• ​Latex Gloves (Extra Pair)​: For handling the old filter and drain plug (oil-soaked metal can stain hands).

4. ​Disposal Supplies​

• ​Sealable Containers: To store old oil and filter for recycling. Never pour oil down drains or onto the ground—it’s toxic and illegal in most areas.

Step 1: Prepare Your Car and Workspace

Start by ensuring your car is cool. Hot oil burns, and pressure in the engine can spray oil when you remove the drain plug. Park on a flat, level surface, engage the parking brake, and chock the wheels to prevent rolling.

If your oil pan is beneath the car, use a jack to lift the front end, then secure it with jack stands. Lie on a creeper (a flat board with wheels) to slide under the car comfortably. Clean the area around the drain plug and oil filter with a rag—this prevents dirt from falling into the engine when you remove these parts.

Step 2: Drain the Old Oil

Locate the drain plug (a large bolt at the bottom of the oil pan) and the oil filter (a cylindrical metal canister, often near the drain plug or along the engine block).

• ​Remove the Drain Plug: Use your wrench/socket to loosen it counterclockwise. Once loose, unscrew it the rest of the way by hand. Let the oil drain into the pan—this takes 5–10 minutes. Watch for drips; when they slow to a trickle, you’re ready to move on.

• ​Inspect the Drain Plug: Check the old gasket (a rubber or metal ring on the plug). If it’s cracked, flattened, or stuck to the pan, replace it. Reusing a damaged gasket causes leaks.

Step 3: Replace the Oil Filter

The oil filter holds old oil and debris, so handle it carefully to avoid spills.

• ​Loosen the Filter: Use the oil filter wrench to turn it counterclockwise. It may be tight—apply steady pressure, but don’t force it (a stripped filter is harder to remove later).

• ​Remove and Drain: Once loose, unscrew the filter by hand. Let it drain into the pan for a minute—there’s still oil inside. Place the old filter in your disposal container.

• ​Prep the New Filter: Dip your finger in new oil and coat the rubber gasket on the new filter. This creates a better seal and prevents leaks.

• ​Install the New Filter: Screw it clockwise by hand until tight, then give it a ¼-turn with the wrench. Over-tightening can damage the gasket or make removal difficult later.

Step 4: Reinstall the Drain Plug and Refill with New Oil

• ​Reinstall the Drain Plug: Clean the drain hole with a rag to remove debris. Screw the plug back in by hand, then tighten it with the wrench—most plugs require 15–25 ft-lbs of torque (check your manual; over-tightening strips threads).

• ​Add New Oil: Place the funnel in the engine’s oil filler cap (on top of the engine). Pour in the recommended amount (found in your manual—usually 4–6 quarts). Wait a minute for oil to settle, then check the dipstick. Add more if needed, but stop before the “max” line—overfilling causes foam and seal leaks.

Step 5: Test for Leaks and Final Checks

Start the engine and let it run for 5–10 minutes. Check under the car for leaks around the drain plug and filter. If you see drips, tighten the plug or filter slightly.

After the test, shut off the engine and wait 2–3 minutes for oil to drain back into the pan. Check the dipstick again—top up if low. Wipe excess oil from the dipstick tube and engine block.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• ​Using the Wrong Oil: Low-viscosity oil (e.g., 0W-16 in a car requiring 5W-30) may not protect at high temperatures; high-viscosity oil increases friction and fuel consumption.

• ​Over-Tightening Components: Stripped drain plugs or filters are costly to repair. Tighten to spec, not “as hard as possible.”

• ​Ignoring Old Oil Disposal: Improper disposal harms the environment and may result in fines. Most auto parts stores or service centers accept used oil for recycling.

• ​Skipping the Filter: A clogged or old filter bypasses oil, letting contaminants damage the engine. Always replace it with the oil.

How Often Should You Change Oil? The Real Answer

While manufacturer guidelines are a starting point, adjust based on your driving habits:

• ​Severe Service: Short trips (<10 miles), stop-and-go traffic, towing, or extreme heat/cold? Change oil every 3,000–5,000 miles.

• ​Normal Service: Long highway drives, moderate temperatures? Stick to 5,000–7,500 miles.

• ​Synthetic Oil: High-quality synthetic oils (e.g., Amsoil, Royal Purple) last longer—up to 10,000–15,000 miles in some vehicles. Always confirm with your manual.

The Benefits of DIY Oil Changes

Beyond saving money ($50–$150 per change vs. $100–$200 at a shop), DIY changes let you:

• ​Control Quality: Choose premium oil and filters, not whatever the shop uses.

• ​Catch Issues Early: Inspecting the drain plug, filter, and old oil can reveal problems like metal shavings (indicating engine wear) or water contamination (coolant leak).

• ​Build Skills: Mastering this task makes other maintenance (like transmission fluid changes) feel less daunting.

What If You’re Not Comfortable?

If working under your car feels overwhelming, start with simpler tasks (checking tire pressure, replacing air filters) to build confidence. Alternatively, watch YouTube tutorials specific to your car model—visual guides help. Remember: even pros started as beginners.

Final Thoughts

Changing your car’s engine oil is a manageable DIY task with the right tools and preparation. By following this guide, you’ll not only save money but also gain peace of mind knowing your engine is protected. Always prioritize safety, use quality parts, and dispose of old oil responsibly. With practice, this skill will become second nature—and your car will thank you with years of reliable performance.

Now, grab your tools, roll up your sleeves, and get to work. Your engine (and wallet) will thank you.